But I do believe that the heart stays warm when well fed. A romance may fade, but love endures when a couple try to feed themselves and each other well. It is a thought that is tied into survival as much as it is an act of generosity. For many this is played out in restaurants on Valentine’s night, when couples sit self-consciously opposite each other playing out a ritual that for me would feel extraordinarily embarrassing.

It is nicer, surely, to play down the silliness of the whole thing and gift a little meal with a glass of something lovely at home. Make a pizza and tear it apart together. Satisfy your love of spice with a rose-harissa-scented grill, or delight in the texture of salmon with crunchy radish. Jointly anticipate the delicious airiness of a passion-fruit soufflé while waiting for it to rise in the oven. This is how I will be having my Valentine’s dinner.

Valentine Day's menu  cn domain 

Valentine' Day recipes: heart-shaped pizza

Valentine's Day recipes: passion-fruit soufflé